First Look at Buddha Beer Bar

The number of bars serving more than a couple of craft beers on tap in the upper-reaches of Manhattan can probably be counted on one hand. But just a half-block out of the 191st Street stop on the 1 Train lies a new diamond in the rough: the week-old Buddha Beer Bar (4497 Broadway, at 192nd St., Washington Heights).

In a retail strip on Broadway, Buddha Beer Bar lies between Inwood and Washington Heights. The beer and food menus are a bit upscale, but this is a neighborhood place at heart, and the friendly folks behind the bar are knowledgable about beer and completely unafraid of recommending an American craft beer to a regular Negro Modelo drinker while reminding them of that Mexican beer’s history.

The tap menu is 24 deep, including three beers on nitro, like Wexler’s Cream Ale and Sixpoint Otis. The remaining beers focus primarily American, with brews like Victory Yakima Glory, Sierra Nevada Torpedo, and Brooklyn Mary’s Maple Porter on tap along side Delirium Tremens and Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen. Tap beers average between $6 and $6.50, with only the rarest beers topping $7. They also have a rotating cider on tap, and an extensive bottle list that includes highly-praised brews Ballast Point Sculpin IPA and Ommegang Seduction. Brian Duffy, who some folks might remember from his days at Bronx Ale House, manages the beer list and keeps it well-balanced with several varieties of craft beer while offering a few selections for craft beer newbies.

The food menu, curated by owner and chef James Lee of nearby wine bar 181 Cabrini, puts his spin on bar food with a nod to his Korean heritage, offering a menu of kimchi steak tacos ($9), braised pork belly with dates ($7), pulled pork sandwiches ($12), and snacks like crunchy and sweet fried brussels sprouts in a chili caramel sauce ($7).

The vibe isn’t stodgy and it’s not entirely a celebration of craft beer - but it shouldn’t be. Buddha Beer Bar functions as a well-rounded neighborhood bar with great beer. They’ve got sports - nine TVs in all - to satisfy the fanatic in you. They’ve got fusion food to satisfy the foodie side in you. They’ve got growlers to go - bring your own, or for a limited time, get a new one for free - to satisfy the homebody in you. And they’ve got a two-dozen deep tap beer selection to satisfy the beer geek in you.

Buddha Beer Bar doesn’t have to be all things to all people, and it doesn’t try to be all things to all people. But without even trying, it kind of is. And it’s worth checking out if you’re just around the corner or from the furthest reaches of Manhattan.

February 15, 2012

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